Mary Whitney ’23

The chill of fall has fully settled in, and with that all of the rain I was warned about! During this first week of November, I experienced my first serious storm, complete with thunder and lightning.

November, however, is also that month in the fall semester where everything begins to pile up: I’m keeping up with photography, preparing to write my paper for Roman Art & Archaeology, practicing my Italian, and translating Plato, Cicero, and Varro. While constantly putting out my best work for five classes (which is one more than I’ve ever taken in my past four semesters at Holy Cross), I’ve found that I’m struggling to make time for myself. These have largely shaped my goals for November:

Seek recommendations. Ask professors and classmates for their favorite museums, restaurants, shops, and general places to visit. Asking friends and professors for recommendations not only saves me time, but will likely expose me to places I wouldn’t look for on my own! I’ve made a folder on Google Maps of places I want to visit, but many of them are far enough that I would need to save them for a weekend trip. Which leads to my next goal…

Plan at least one weekend trip. Planning a trip is a daunting task, especially if going alone: Buying a train ticket there and back, securing a place to stay, choosing what activities to do… There’s a lot to take into account! Even if I don’t travel this month as the semester wraps up, I at least want to have some trips planned for the spring!

I’ll keep this post short, as my past posts have been quite long! I look forward to seeing what November brings me!

It’s been yet another month! Now that my daily routine has started to feel mundane (although deep down I don’t think I’ll ever get over the convenience of the metro), I’m slowly preparing myself for all of the ways I can branch out while still prioritizing my schoolwork.

In my post reflecting on September, I decided on three goals for October, especially ones I could complete during my week of fall break: Explore new food, visit more museums, and pursue meaningful free time. After my experience in Venice, I knew I wanted to spend my week of fall break exploring the city I’m living in. Rome alone has so much to offer, and as I thought about my goals for October, I knew I wanted to plan a week full of activities I would enjoy while my roommates went off on their own adventure. I decided to spend my time in various museums around the city I had passed by throughout the month, but hadn’t had time to visit.

The Capitoline Museums is a single museum comprised of three buildings absolutely packed with ancient Roman art and artifacts as well as medieval and Renaissance art. This is a museum I can access for free with my MIC card, and now that I’ve been once, I would love to write a blog post just about this massive collection.

Palazzo Altemps is a branch of the National Roman Museum and might be my favorite museum so far. The 15th century building houses ancient sculptures from Renaissance collections.

I returned to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum with “full experience” tickets, which allowed me to explore the underground of the Colosseum and peek into some of the buildings throughout the Forum. Although I’ve been inside the Forum three times now, I simply can’t get enough of it—I’ll have to return again soon!

The Ara Pacis (Altar of Peace) was originally on the outskirts of Rome but is now located in a dedicated museum at Lungotevere in Augusta. This is another museum I had free access to with my MIC card, and it was such a special experience to not only study the friezes along the outside, but to walk around the inside of the altar.

After spending what I would call a week “in my element,” I can tell I am gradually growing more comfortable with seeing Rome from my own curious angle. I am already eagerly looking to November and deciding what my goals for the upcoming month will be!

Arrivederci e a presto!

A new post, and so soon! Shortly after reflecting on my accomplishments for September, a few friends invited me to join them for their weekend trip to Venice. Knowing that I wouldn’t normally take such a trip on my own, I agreed to join them so I could expand my horizons.

We had an early start on Friday morning, waking up at 6:30 AM to catch out 7:55 AM train. After our five-hour train ride, we arrived in Venice and took a waterbus to the Biennale Architettura 2021’s Giardini location. 28 countries (and Venice) responded to the question “How will we live together?” by designing their own exhibits and hosting them in dedicated pavilions. Countries used architectural thinking to respond to the theme in a myriad of ways, such as migration and forced displacement, natural resource distribution, and anticipating the future living conditions of Earth. In the wake of the pandemic, there was a special concern for how humans connect with other aspects of the natural world and how architecture can serve as a means of creating an environment where all people can flourish. My favorite pavilion was Denmark’s, which collected rainwater from the pavilion roof and designed a path for it to flow throughout the building to illustrate the connection between life and water. As you listened and watched the water flow throughout the space, you were invited to enjoy a cup of tea.

We spent our entire afternoon at the museum before we journeyed to Piazza San Marco for the gondola ride we booked. We set out at dusk and enjoyed the peace and quiet of the narrow canals as Venice’s nightlife slowly bubbled to the surface.

On Saturday we visited the islands of Murano, Torcello, and Burano. In Murano we saw a glass-making demonstration, in Torcello we explored the quaint church and the small path behind it, and in Burano we watched an old woman make lace and strolled through the streets of brightly colored buildings. Burano was my favorite island of the three because it reminded me of Capitola, a city back home whose large sand beach I’ve started to miss.

On Sunday we woke up before sunrise and began our quiet walk back to Piazza San Marco to watch the sunrise. Seeing the empty square and listening to the water splash against the gondolas resting along the dock was one of the rare moments of serenity during our trip.

So, why the title of this post?

Despite Venice’s beauty, I felt as though I didn’t really enjoy any of it. After traveling most of Friday and Sunday, we really only had one full day to explore the city, and even I didn’t take full advantage of our time there because of exhaustion and academic responsibilities. If I thought Rome was overwhelming to navigate with its multiple side streets, the addition of Venice’s canals made it that much easier to get lost. I also found myself constantly missing Rome’s familiarity and slower pace.

After returning to my apartment at 11:00 PM on Sunday night and dreading my 9:00 AM class the next morning, I went to bed wondering what I could take away from a mostly negative experience. I’ve decided that this past weekend taught me what kind of traveler I am. I prefer to take things slow and spend more time at fewer places rather than rush to see as much as possible. I’d rather wake up early in the morning and watch the city wake up rather than stay up late and witness the nightlife. Most importantly, I’d prioritize having comfortable travel; the eight-hour bus ride back to Rome may have been less expensive, but I will definitely not be doing that again.

I’m slowly learning that my study abroad experience will not always be about discovering unfamiliar facets of my personality or having new experiences, but witnessing and confirming aspects about myself that haven’t, and likely won’t, change. I have always been a quiet and methodical person who prefers spending quality time on a few dedicated things, and that’s okay! Not everyone can be the social butterfly that does the most, and not being that type of person doesn’t mean you aren’t appreciating what a foreign country has to offer you. Instead, figuring out who you are and what you like is an essential part of the adventure, whether the event was positive or negative. Part of me is thankful that I internalized such a valuable lesson in such a breathtaking city.

Arrivederci, Venezia! Maybe in the future I’ll get to know you better.

As I scroll through my photos and videos, I can tell I’ve already come a long way from when I arrived on September 2nd. When I first arrived, I could tell I was very much stuck in my “pandemic shell”; I was afraid to explore even my immediate neighborhood, I resisted introducing myself to other students, and I avoided anything that seemed too unfamiliar. While I am no less cautious now than I was at the end of 2019, I can feel my independence and eagerness returning. I can tell that I’m ready to embrace the excitement and opportunities of this year. With one month in the Eternal City under my belt, it’s time for me to share my reflections, highlights, and goals for October.

Some things I’ve observed and learned as I’ve gotten familiar with the city:

• The metro is super straightforward. The buses? Not so much. I was absolutely terrified of navigating the metro system when I first arrived, which meant I tried to walk everywhere. While there’s nothing wrong with getting in your daily steps (and it’s impossible not to in Rome), I realized I had to take a leap of faith when I had to meet my 9:00 AM Roman Art & Archaeology class at the Capitoline Hill, a roughly 45-minute walk from my apartment. I quickly learned that the metro is easy to navigate: Signs plainly list all of the stops, it’s easy to find your train once you’re inside, and the stops are all clearly marked and announced. The buses, on the other hand, have a number system I haven’t quite learned, and they are rarely on time anyway. I’ve learned to rely on the metro and my fast walking speed to take me where I need to go.
• Always carry your documents with you. Aside from legal and safety concerns, having all of my proper documents has allowed me to visit all sorts of amazing places. Just recently I was the only student in my Darkroom Photography class who could enter the Hendrik Christian Anderson Museum right next to campus because I brought my CDC card, a form of ID (such as a state ID or passport), and an official letter from Temple explaining the validity of the CDC card as an equivalent to the European Green Pass. Always keep these documents with you, as you never know when you’ll need them!

My September highlights:

• Seeing the inside of the Order of Malta. Through Temple University, I and a group of other interested students visited the Order of Malta, where we got to see beyond the famous keyhole and explore the grounds. We saw not only the beautiful Baroque church but also the gardens and an amazing view of St. Peter’s Basilica.
• Watching the sunset at the Piazza del Popolo. After a long day of classes, nothing beats taking a short walk to the Piazza del Popolo and climbing the stairs to the lookout at Villa Borghese. The photo below speaks for itself!
• Seeing the Colosseum and the Roman Forum five times. Part of the privilege of studying abroad for a full academic year is the fact that I can return to my favorite iconic places multiple times for different reasons. I often pass by these incredible ancient monuments depending on where I’m going for class, whether for on-site lectures or as subjects for my photographs. I can’t wait to claim more spaces as my favorites!
• Having my first complete conversations in Italian. At last, I can sit down at a cafè or bar and order coffee entirely in Italian! My favorite cafè is a three-minute walk from my apartment and serves what they call a cappuccino eccelente, a cappuccino served in a cup lined with chocolate. I am also now able to visit my local photography store and purchase my film for the week entirely in Italian. The constant practice really helps!

My goals for October:

• Be more adventurous with food. One thing I still have to overcome is my anxiety about ordering food. Now that I’ve developed a small arsenal of helpful Italian phrases, I want to try ordering my coffee at the bar or grabbing lunch to-go.
• Visit more museums. Now that I know how to get around and that I’ve seen many of the major outdoor sights, I can finally start appreciating the collections within buildings. With my MIC card, which gives me free access to several civic museums and archaeological sites within the city as a student in Rome, planning a trip is only a matter of deciding where I want to go.
• Evaluate how I spend my free time. This one will probably be the most difficult to approach, and definitely not a goal I can master in a month. Between studying and preparing for five classes (which for me means translating Greek and Latin texts, taking 72 film photos each week, learning Italian, and studying ancient Roman art and architecture), exploring Rome, practicing my cooking, and getting enough sleep, finding time to relax is difficult. However, I hope that as places and activities become more familiar, I’ll be able to take more time for myself to explore how my interests and hobbies evolve. Ideally, I want to read more and take a few watercolor lessons from my three talented roommates!

I’m so relieved that I am settling into Rome day by day. As the heat (hopefully) fades away during October, I can’t wait to keep you all updated on my next month of adventures!

Hello! My name is Mary and I am an Art History and Classics double major from Santa Cruz, California, a coastal city between San Francisco and the Monterey Bay. I am attending Temple University Rome for both the fall and spring semesters, and I am so excited to immerse myself in a city that speaks to both of my majors so well!

It’s amazing how fast the time has flown already! Every day is a whirlwind of activity: Commuting, attending classes, grocery shopping, cooking with my roommates and hunting for our next favorite gelato place, studying… After the world came to a grinding halt for my first three semesters at Holy Cross, these past weeks have been intense. I’m (hopefully) having my first full year of college experiences, and in Rome no less. I’m still wrapping my head around this incredible opportunity!

When we first arrived, Temple University did an incredible job of helping us get settled and ready to explore, from an orientation trip to the medieval town of Todi to smaller and more personal walking tours of Flaminio, the area surrounding campus.

Aside from this being my first time in Italy, this is also my first time experiencing apartment living. I live with three other roommates, and together we’re still learning the ropes of how to shop and clean for four. What I appreciate most is that together we’re able to push each other to be more adventurous. For our first weekend together, we took a train to Santa Severa, a beach with a castle along the water. I never would have planned such a major trip on my own, but I had an amazing time and it helped me feel more comfortable with our smaller outings to more local areas.

Because of the nature of my classes, I quickly learned how to navigate the Metro system. I have to buy the majority of my supplies for my Darkroom Photography class, such as film and resin-coated paper, which has allowed me to visit multiple camera stores. In my Roman Art and Archaeology class, I meet my professor and my other classmates for on-site lectures at museums and archeological sites. With the lack of reliable public transportation in California, I’ve very quickly gained a new sense of independence here in Rome!

Of course, I’ve also taken time to visit some of Rome’s most famous sites. How could I miss out on the Piazza del Popolo, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, or the Colosseum and the Roman Forum? And let’s not forget all of the amazing churches you can slip inside of for some respite from the busy streets.

You’ve likely noticed by now that I used the more formal greeting buongiorno in my title, which is used throughout the morning and afternoon and directed toward those you respect or don’t know very well yet. I still have so much to learn about Rome, so I look forward to familiarizing myself with the Eternal City and finding my place in it this year. Arrivederci, and until my next post!